40 & Fabulous: A 4-Night Foodie Adventure in Bilbao & San Sebastián
Kicking off the big 4-0 celebrations with a slice of cake and a lot of laughs! The best part of a foodie city break is celebrating with your favourite people. Can't wait to share all the delicious details of our San Sebastian pintxos safari!
I turned the big 4-0 recently, and when my mates asked how I would like to celebrate this life milestone, I said I’d love to tick a trip to San Sebastián off my bucket list! So how better to celebrate than with four nights of pure, unadulterated gastronomic bligirl’sss in the Basque Country? I cannot enthuse more about this trip, dear reader! If you’re like me and thrive on novelty and new experiences and your happy place is hopping from bar to bar, sampling bite-sized morsels of incredible food and washing it all down with local wine, then you NEED to add Bilbao and Donostia-San Sebastián to your travel bucket list, immediately!
This isn't just any itinerary; it's my very own insider's guide to eating, sleeping, and celebrating your way through two of Spain’s most incredible cities - Bilbao (a little) but mainly San Sebastián - the crown jewel of our trip! Get your Google Maps starred and your suitcase packed!
Getting There & First Impressions: Bilbao (Night 1)
Cost breakdown (Bilbao)
Return Flights (MAN-BIO) - £336.94 (easyJet)
Manchester Airport Transport - £28.89 (Uber)
Initial Airport Spend - £126.94 (Jo Malone Myrrh and Tonka Perfume, Cider in the bar, Dinner at Giraffe)
Bilbao Airport to Hotel Taxi - £30 approx / €34.50 (paid by contactless card/Apple Pay)
Accommodation - £60 per person (ByPillow San Mames)
Food (Bilbao) - £20 approx per person - breakfast coffee + croissant (Alma) + sandwiches (Molica Foccacia) + bottled water
The Travel & Arrival Lowdown
I flew from Manchester (MAN) to Bilbao (BIO) on Thursday, landing and making a beeline for a pint of cider in the airport bar (which felt like some sort of Ibiza club (it was vibing and full of lads on tour) - and then, once finding out my Easy Jet flight had been delayed by TWO HOURS! Gah! I got a burger and cocktail at Giraffe before seeing that Easy Jet had gifted me a £6 voucher to get something to eat - of course, I spent it sensibly (note: on a big box of Cadbury’s chocolate fingers and a Jimmy’s Iced Coffee… gotta kick off a celebration properly, right?).
Heads up on the Bilbao Airport transfer: The local taxi queue can be a mile long, so be prepared! There are ubers that come to Bilbao airport, but these are few and far between and cost almost double what the local taxi charges. Also, there are super-cheap local buses (approx. €4.50) you can catch just a short walk from the departures exit, but they often stop running in the early evening. Top Tip: Check the bus timetable before you fly. I ended up being delayed by two hours and had to grab a taxi for €34.50, but my friend who arrived earlier had managed to catch the local bus service - saving her 30 EUR! Thankfully the taxi queue directly outside the airport is well lit, so being solo and female at this point didn’t scare me too much. I was too busy earwigging and hearing the other tourists behind me saying that they too were going to be visiting the Guggenheim Museum whilst in Bilbao! Shock! Haha!
A quick stop in Bilbao to soak in the incredible art and architecture. The Guggenheim is a must-see, and it's just a stone's throw from some amazing food spots! Have you ever done a dual-city pintxos and culture trip?
Evenings in Bilbao are dramatic. Took a stroll past the impressive San Mamés Stadium after a fantastic dinner. This trip isn't just about pintxos; the sights are just as incredible!
One night base in Bilbao! A comfy place to rest up before heading back to the culinary delights of San Sebastian. Found this cheap spot near the stadium – a perfect base for our pintxos hunting adventure.
Packing List
Even in late September, the weather was warm enough to be able to not wear a coat. In the evening, we would take an extra layer, just incase it got a little chilly! And be sure to check the weather forecast too, as Donostia-San Sebastián - for all that it is so lush and green - does get rainy days too! So take a brolly!
The vibe in San Sebastián is pretty chill - so you could, if you wanted to, go from day-to-night without changing. However, if you’re like me and my mates and want to freshen up and smarten up for the evening, I’d pack a mix of dresses, skirts, smart trousers and cute tops you could wear with jeans etc.
That view! Honestly, can you beat the beauty of La Concha Beach in San Sebastian? It's the perfect backdrop for a foodie city break. Between the stunning scenery and the incredible pintxos, this city has completely stolen my heart.
Post-beach chill, watching the surfers, pre-pintxos refresh. Gotta keep the travel outfits casual and cool when you're hitting up multiple spots in one day!
When you need a chic look that goes from a casual walk to a high-end pintxos spot! A little black dress is my go-to for evening explorations on a foodie city break.
The perfect co-ord for an evening of incredible food! This pattern felt right at home in San Sebastian.
My casual evening uniform for a pintxos food safari: comfy jeans and a chic vest. Essential for those long days of walking between the best bars in San Sebastian!
Footwear-wise, I took: sandals (flat), sandals (with a small block heel), chunky black ankle boots, trainers and my Haviana flipflops (for the beach). I decided against taking any actual heels, as I knew we’d be getting our steps in, walking about.
In terms of layers, for when the weather felt cooler, I packed an oversized utility-style shirt, an oversized slinky leopard print shirt, a black tassled leather biker jacket and a lightweight burgundy bomber jacket. (You can see now why I had to pay an extra £25 for going over my 23kg luggage allowance by 2kg due to my heavier baggage on the way back. I’d decided to pack two bottles of delicious rioja wine to take home with me… oops!) I did also take enough clothes and outfit options to be able to move to San Sebastián, to be fair… But then again, I am a maximalist, who loves choice, who struggles with sticking to a capsule wardrobe.
Travel tips
Our visit to San Sebastián coincided with the end of the San Sebastián film festival, which meant that the prices of flights and accomodation were likely more expensive than other times of the year. My friend suggested that to get the best prices, you should really book 6-months in advance to secure the cheapest deals. We also reckon we could’ve saved more money if we had avoided conveniences like taxis and switched these journeys for buses. But, in the interest of saving time, maximising comfort and safety (when travelling late at night) we found splitting the cost of a taxi between two or three of us pretty reasonable. Let me know if you have any other money saving travel tips by commenting on this post!
Where to stay in Bilbao
My mate had flown in late too, so knowing that we would not be doing anything in Bilbao on Thursday evening as it would be far too late by the time we both got to the hotel (01:40am in my case) we chose to book 1-night at the ByPillow San Mames Hotel (right by the Sam Mames Football Stadium) for a very practical reason: it's dirt cheap (£60 each per night for a triple room) and perfectly located (within walking distance) next to the Bilbao Bus Station—ideal for visiting the Guggenheim and getting our pre-booked bus to San Sebastián the next day.
My honest review? Whilst the hotel did the job, location-wise, but it won't be top of my list for a future stay. The cleaning product smell was a bit much, and the walls were paper thin. If you're staying longer than one night, you might want something a bit further into the centre with more charm! It could be fair to say, that at 40, we’ve become accustomed to the finer things in life and just enjoy a bloody good hotel these days, anything less just makes us a bit sad. Note: see my Capsule Hotel experience in London Piccadilly and you’ll see exactly where I am coming from!
Hello from the sculptural masterpiece that is the Guggenheim Bilbao! This city is a double threat: incredible food (hello, pintxos!) AND world-class art. The perfect combination for a thrilling city break.
Day 1: bilbao Art, Focaccia & The Golden Coast of San Sebastián
Morning: Culture, Coffee, & carbs
First stop, breakfast! We fuelled up at Alma with a coffee and croissant for €12.50 before heading straight to the iconic Guggenheim Bilbao. Even if modern art isn't your thing, the building itself - more sculpture than architecture - wrapped in shimmering titanium, is a marvel. I reckon we got as much joy from ogling it from the outside as we did as being inside and walking around the exhibitions. It is stunning! Ticket cost was a very reasonable too at €18 per person (€36 total for two of us).
Fueling up at Alma Cafe in Bilbao before the road trip back to San Sebastian for more pintxos! This cappuccino and croissant combo was the perfect start to a big travel day. Sometimes, you need a break from the tapas to appreciate a classic breakfast.
Absolutely mesmerized by the scale and color of the Helen Frankenthaler exhibit at the Guggenheim. It's so inspiring to take a break from the pintxos safari and immerse yourself in art!
Thought-provoking and impactful. So cool to see the work of an artist I have long admired, Barbara Kruger the exhibition is a must-see! It's one of the highlights of our culture-packed Bilbao art city break. What's your favourite museum to visit on a trip?
This Barbara Kruger piece speaks volumes. Seriously, if you're planning a trip to the Basque Country, make sure Guggenheim Bilbao is on your itinerary. Note: exhibits change, so do check in advance what they are showing.
Taking a moment to absorb the powerful messages in the Kruger exhibit. Art that makes you think is the best kind of souvenir from a Bilbao art city break!
Quite the emotional experience standing here, craning your neck and reading the messages on this installation by artists Jenny Holzer at Guggenheim Bilbao, part of her Truisms work.
Details from the stunning Helen Frankenthaler abstract expressionist pieces.
Matchy matchy.
Lost in "The Matter of Time" by Richard Serra - it's a permanent installation at the Guggenheim and an absolute sensory experience.
For lunch, my mate had done a bit of research and suggested we grab a focaccia sandwich to eat on the bus to San Sebastián from Molica Focaccia Loteria Kalea, 3, Ibaiondo, 48005 Bilbao, Bizkaia, Spain (check them out on Instagram!). The 'Big Italy' was a flavour bomb and the perfect bus picnic. Note: we decided to buy two different sandwiches and have half each between us. They were incredible! I would say that half was more than enough for me in one sitting, so actually ended up eating the other half the following day for breakfast (having kept it in the fridge in my hotel room) WINNER! Cost: 17.80 EUR / 8.90 EUR each (split between two)
My mate found a little slice of Italy in Bilbao! Molica Focacceria Italiana was the perfect stop to grab a couple of sandwiches to go for a delicious, quick bite on the bus before we headed to the pintxos magic of San Sebastián.
Warning: mouths will water as you watch the sandwich artistry happen! Fresh ingredients and that amazing focaccia base make this a must-visit spot. Pro-tip for your own foodie city break: pack a sandwich for the road!
Bus picnic goals! 🥪 Enjoying our amazing focaccia from Molica and getting some literary inspiration from Stanley Tucci's 'Taste.' Fueling up the right way - ready to devour all the pintxos in San Sebastián!
Afternoon: On the Road to Pintxos Paradise
Bus Bilbao to San Sebastián
Kicking up my feet after a long day of walking around Guggenheim Bilbao and travelling to San Sebastian. A lovely room at Hotel Tres Reyes and a cosy bed is exactly what a San Sebastian foodie city break requires before the evening begins!
Booking: Alsa or Lurraldebus – MUST pre-book, seats sell out fast! Also, our bus on the way back from San Sebastián to Bilbao had a 25 minute delay - so we ended up buying another last minute ticket and hopping on another bus that would get us to Bilbao airport faster, so my mate didn’t miss her flight. So keep that in mind, as you plan your way to the airport - as local taxis from San Sebastián to Bilbao can cost over £130 one way.
Local Bus in San Sebastián - Bus 17 or 28 will take you into town - or back to the hotel. Pay with contactless card or phone, but take your physical card as backup!
San Sebastián Hotel - Hotel Tres Reyes San Sebastián - £478.49 for 3 nights (approx. £159.50/night)
The bus from the Bilbao Bus Station to San Sebastián is the easiest way to travel. You absolutely must pre-book your tickets (check Alsa or Lurraldebus websites), as seats sell out fast!
In San Sebastián, we took a local bus from Miramon to the Onkologikoa stop to get to our hotel. Pro Tip: San Sebastián's buses are modern, and you can pay using your contactless card, Google Pay or Apple Pay! Just bring your physical card too, as phone payments were glitchy on a couple of services.
Where to Stay in San Sebastián
We stayed at the Hotel Tres Reyes for three nights (booked via Booking.com). At around £159.50 per night, it's excellent value. I am Genius Level 3 on Booking.com (humble brag) and it gave me extra discount on the stay!
The verdict? It's a gorgeous hotel, a little outside the immediate Old Town hustle, but the location is super easy for bus links and taxi ranks. We skipped the hotel breakfast and opted to walk into town to try the local coffee shops—a decision I highly recommend!
Evening: The Great Pintxos Crawl Begins!
We headed into town to catch the sunset at La Concha beach. Lesson Learned: You need to leave by about 6:30 pm to arrive just before 7 pm to catch the main event! Use a sunset app like Alpenglow sunrise & sunset predictor (I found it whilst doing a search on the app store - others are available) to check the best time and view predictions.
From the promenade, we walked straight towards the San Sebastián Old Town (Parte Vieja). This is where the magic happens and where almost every single star on my extensive, pre-trip Bilbao + San Sebastián Google Map List research lives.
The golden hour over La Concha Beach is truly something else. I could watch and listen to the waves roll in all evening. This incredible scenery is why San Sebastián is the perfect blend of a beach getaway and a foodie city break. Such a jewel!
Sunset views and good vibes. Moments like these are what make a 40th birthday trip to San Sebastián so special. Ready to start on the pintxos!
Officially obsessed with the golden light in San Sebastián! And the views… Oh! The views!
Standing right here, soaking up every minute of this breathtaking San Sebastián sunset. Pure magic.
A touch of old-world charm right next to the beach. The carousel by La Concha adds a lovely, nostalgic feeling to the already beautiful San Sebastián waterfront.
The golden hour descends on San Sebastián's Old Town, and you can literally feel the buzz building! This is where the magic happens and the pintxos safari begins. Best way to celebrate a 40th foodie city break!
Leading the way to the heart of the pintxos scene! You can't beat the energy of the streets around the Basilica of Santa María del Coro in the Old Town. Get ready to eat!
Our first San Sebastián pintxos bar stop of the trip! Sensory overload! That moment you step up and see all the beautiful bites laid out. This display at Casa Alcalde is everything I could’ve wished for on a foodie city break!
Our Day 1 Pintxos Route: San SebastiÁn Old Town Classics
Casa Alcalde (C. Mayor, 19): Our first stop! The glass cabinet of colourful Pintxos wrapping around the bar is what drew us in. Grab a menu, tick the ones you want, and try the skewered prawns (battered or bacon-wrapped!). Cost: 17.00 EUR / 8.50 EUR each (split between two)
Atari Gastrolekua (C. Mayor, 18): This place is packed but worth it. Must-Eat: Beef cheek with mash potatoes and the cod croquettes. Must-Drink: The local, slightly fizzy Txakoli white wine. Cost: 18.60 EUR / 9.30 EUR each (split between two)
Gandarias (31 de Agosto Kalea, 23): The Star: The Jakobaren maskorrak gratinatuak (gratinated scallops)—seriously, the Basque equivalent of a Michelin-starred fish pie in a scallop shell. Incredible! Also, try the spider crab pintxos (Txaka). Cost: 11.04 EUR / 5.52 EUR each (split between two) note: this seems far too cheap? I am wondering whether we are missing a receipt, but tbf it is very reasonably priced!
Ganbara (C. de San Jerónimo, 21): Be prepared for a queue (we waited 30 mins for a bar seat), but you have to try the Hongos Plancha (wild mushrooms flat grilled with an egg yolk). So, so good. Paired with a bold Rioja wine. Also featured in the Michelin Guide! Cost: 48.30 EUR / 16.10 EUR each (split between three)
Jose Mari Taberna (Fermin Calbeton Kalea, 5): Finished with simple, brilliant baguettes: chicken & bacon mayo, and the classic anchovy, mayo, and red pepper. Cost: 19.65 EUR / 6.55 EUR each (split between three)
Nightcap: Altxerri Jazz & Club (Erregina Erregeordea kalea, 2). A cool spot for a final Txakoli—check the live music schedule to see when bands are performing - or ask the bar staff when you pop in for a drink! Cost: 12.52 EUR / 4.17 EUR each (split between three)
Total spent on Pintxos + drinks: 127.11 EUR / 43.37 EUR each approx
Seafood perfection! Pintxos like this shrimp skewer (and the incredible bacon-wrapped version - nom nom nom) paired with a crisp glass of local Txakoli wine. This is the authentic taste of Basque Country food!
When you need a knife and fork to tackle your pintxo, you know it's going to be good! The melt-in-your-mouth beef cheek at Atari is the kind of culinary highlight you travel for on a foodie city break.
The legendary baked scallop at Gandarias! Rich, creamy, and totally indulgent. If you're recreating this San Sebastian pintxos safari, this stop is mandatory. Heaven in a shell!
Simple, perfect, and utterly delicious. Nothing beats a perfectly fried prawn pintxo from Ganbara. Fresh seafood is a staple of Basque Country food, and this place nails it every time.
The gooey, cheesy perfection of a freshly fried croqueta! This is the comfort food of the pintxos world. Make sure you order enough to share (or don't, I won't judge!).
The iconic Hongos a la Plancha from Ganbara. Rich, earthy wild mushrooms, crisp potatoes, and that golden egg yolk... it's a dish that showcases the brilliance of Basque Country food. Truly unforgettable.
Elevating the pintxos game! This beautiful assortment includes the famous spider crab delight.
Two glasses of txakoli sparkling wine at live music venue Altxerri in San Sebastian
Day 2: basque Cheesecake, breakfast of dreams, Funiculars & main feed-worthy Views
Serious coffee lovers will enjoy a fix at Simona Specialty Coffee. The perfect little recharge spot before tackling another day of eating our way through San Sebastián!
No trip to the Basque Country is complete without the famous Basque Cheesecake! This slice at Simona was the perfect morning treat. Forget the continental breakfast; this is how a foodie city break should start. Note: you can obviously enjoy this for breakfast, lunch and dinner if you so wish! Everything in moderation and all that! haha!
Morning: Coffee & Views
We skipped the hotel breakfast and walked to Simona Speciality Coffee Club (Ramón María Lili Pasealekua, 2). There’s usually a queue, but it's worth the wait! Must-Eat: The Basque Cheesecake (because always) and the Señorita Croque. Cost: 51.46 EUR / 17.15 EUR each (split between three)
Next up, a bus to the funicular to visit the old theme park, Monte Igueldo Amusement Park. Warning: The funicular queue can be long, and if you don't like heights, you'll need to close your eyes, but the panoramic views of La Concha are absolutely worth it. This is where you'll find the cute little lazy river boats, too! Cost: 14.25 EUR / 4.75 EUR each (split between three
This view from the top of Monte Igueldo never gets old! The iconic curve of La Concha Beach in all its glory. A must-do for any San Sebastián city break itinerary—worth the funicular ride!
Exploring the best viewpoints of San Sebastián with my mate, Mel! Views, sunshine, and great company—the perfect ingredients for a 40th birthday foodie city break.
Pinch me! Is this real life? From this vantage point, you can truly appreciate the beauty of San Sebastián –one of the most beautiful coastal cities in the world.
Taking a moment away from the Old Town pintxos bars to soak up some history and architecture at the incredible Cathedral of the Good Shepherd. So much to explore on a San Sebastián city break!
We walked 1.5 hours back to town along the beach, shoes off, toes in the sand—pure holiday bliss.
Lunchtime Pintxos Refuel
Sirimiri Gastroleku (C. Mayor, 4): Classic Pintxos de Barra with a refreshing Fanta limon. Cost: €14.50 / 7.25 EUR each (split between two)
La Cepa de Bernardo (31 de Agosto Kalea, 7): Two more winners: a goats cheese and Iberian ham/balsamic drizzle pintxo, and another ham, mayo, spider crab classic. Cost: €13.00 / 6.50 EUR each (split between two)
Total spent on Pintxos + drinks: 27.50 EUR / 13.75 EUR each
Elevating the lunchtime game! These amazing prawn and crab pintxos from Sirimiri are total works of art. A must-try stop on your next San Sebastian foodie city break!
The anxiety (and excitement!) of deciding what to order from a menu packed with delicious pintxos and raciones. When in doubt, order the Jamón Ibérico at La Cepa!
This is the quintessential San Sebastián view: a crisp glass of wine, two perfectly crafted pintxos, and the iconic hanging jamón at La Cepa in the Old Town.
Time for little a celebratory drink with the girls! The stunning setting and stylish cocktails at Nobu San Sebastián were the perfect treat to cap off the weekend.
The terrace overlooking La Concha beach at Nobu San Sebastian
The chic setting of Café de la Concha on the promenade. The perfect place to start a stylish evening, sip a drink, and watch the last light fade over the bay before diving back into the pintxos streets of San Sebastián!
Evening: Cocktails at Nobu & Another pintxos Crawl
I treated us to cocktails and edamame at Nobu San Sebastián's roof terrace. Cost: €50 for three cocktails/snacks.
The verdict: Chic, lovely views, but perhaps the least vibey Basque-country esq stop of the trip. My heart truly belongs in the old town!
Afterward, we strolled the gorgeous, lit-up promenade of La Concha and back toward the Old Town. Keep an eye out for La Perla Taberna Jatetxea, which looked beautiful (if you have eaten here, let me know if it is any good?) and is right next to a spa (La Perla Talasoterapia)—perfect for a post-Pintxos detox!
San Sebastián after dark! The sight of the city lights reflecting on the water of La Concha Beach is breathtaking. This is the magical backdrop for an evening on our foodie city break.
Our Day 2 Pintxos Route: The san sebastian Hot Spots
Borda Berri (Fermin Calbeton Kalea, 12): Excellent food, but it’s loud, crowded, and shouty (order at the bar). Must-Eat: The entrecote with gravy and Pochos Con Hongos (local white bean stew with mushroom) and a basket of bread to mop up that delicious gravy. Cost: 18.50 EUR / 6.17 EUR each (split between three of us)
Bell’s Bar aka Bells Taberna (San Bizente Kalea, 9): A calmer spot. Must-Eat: The most delicious tomato salad with tuna and onion, plus some classic croquetas. Cost: 31.10 EUR / 10.37 EUR each (split between three of us)
La Viña (31 de Agosto Kalea, 3): The birthplace of the famous Basque Cheesecake! Super buzzy. Must-Eat: Txorizoa Sagardotan (chorizo with cider) and obviously, the cheesecake! Cost: 18.60 EUR / 6.20 EUR each (split between three of us)
La Cuchara de San Telmo (Santa Korda Kalea, 4): A VERY famous spot, a personal favourite of the late Anthony Bourdain. Be prepared to queue and stand! Must-Eat: The beef cheek stewed at low temperature with red wine—oh. my. days. It’s a religious experience. Also, the grilled octopus (Pulpo). Cost: 22.80 EUR / 7.60 EUR each (split between three of us)
Total spent on Pintxos + drinks: 91 EUR / 30.33 EUR each (split between three of us)
A full-bellied €12 taxi ride got us back to the hotel for a well-deserved sleep!
If you go to Borda Berri, you must order the entrecote pintxo. It's rich, savory, and pure melt-in-your-mouth magic. Note: Be prepared to queue…
So many delicious aperitifs and digestifs to choose from! A glass of local vermouth is the perfect way to kick off (or end) a legendary pintxos food safari night in San Sebastián.
Hearty and comforting. This incredible white bean dish at Borda Berri proves that not all pintxos are served on bread. It's the perfect taste of traditional Basque Country food to warm you up!
New school pintxos on the menu! Bells Bar (or Bells Taberna) offers a fresh, creative twist on the traditional bites. Planning my next move on this ultimate foodie city break!
These aren't your average croquetas! Bells Taberna takes these classic pintxos and elevates them to a new level. Crispy, creamy, and ridiculously flavorful—a true highlight of the Old Town San Sebastian scene.
Taking a fresh detour from the fried pintxos! This simple but exquisite tomato and tuna salad at Bells is a masterclass in using high-quality Basque Country ingredients. Perfect balance during a non-stop foodie city break!
I love finding cool, quirky details like this mural at Bell’s Taberna that add to the charm of the San Sebastián Old Town
Behold: the legendary Basque Cheesecake at La Viña! Seeing this shelf of perfectly 'burnt' perfection is a pilgrimage for any foodie. The essential, must-have dessert on your San Sebastian pintxos food safari!
The source of the legend! Perusing the menu at La Viña, though we all know the main event is the Basque cheesecake (tarta de queso!). But don't skip their savory pintxos too—they're classics for a reason!
Classic pintxos done right at La Viña. This combo of rich chorizo in cider and a perfect slice of tortilla is the taste of authentic Basque Country food. A must-hit on your foodie city break!
Taking a detour from the bar counter pintxos and going gourmet! The Pulpo at La Cuchara de San Telmo is incredible. This spot is a must for a more refined San Sebastian pintxos experience.
Watching others pushing their foodie boundaries with the crispy pig's ear at La Cuchara de San Telmo! They said it's unexpectedly delicious and a total testament to the adventurous spirit of San Sebastian pintxos. Maybe next time!
The veal cheek (carrillera) from La Cuchara de San Telmo is a legendary dish for a reason! So tender, so rich—it's the perfect savory highlight of our foodie city break.
Day 3: Surfers, Shopping & Cider Houses
Morning: Beach Life + Coffee + Cinnamon buns
I took a bus to the Zurriola beach in the Gros neighbourhood to watch the surfers. It’s perfect for people-watching!
Trading the Old Town for the waves of Gros! La Zurriola Beach is the heart of San Sebastián's surf culture. It's a great spot to catch some rays and watch the action between pintxos rounds.
I would love to book some surf lessons again soon, and return to the waves—and while Sri Lanka's Weligama beach gave me that much-needed healing (and taught me to stand!), San Sebastián's famous Zurriola Beach is where the city's surf culture truly thrives. There was even a little beach party one night (that. didn’t find out about until the following day, where the surf community came together for drinks and music)
The surf vibe in Gros is so cool! If you're staying in this neighbourhood, you're right by the action and just a short walk from some amazing, less crowded pintxos spots.
Having done a bit of research, I have read that San Sebastian is the perfect spot for all levels: beginners will find gentler waves in the warmer summer months (June to August), while intermediate and advanced surfers should plan a trip during the larger, more consistent swells of autumn and winter (September to March). If you're looking for an alternative spot, the nearby surf towns of Somo, Zarautz, Hondarribia, Bidart and Hossegor are renowned for great surfing too. To get started, you can typically budget from around €15-€20 for a full day of board and wetsuit rental, while a group surf lesson at one of the many schools in the Gros neighbourhood starts from roughly €30-€40 per person. You’d definitely need a wet suit if you’re thinking of swapping the tropics for the Basque Country's much cooler Atlantic temperatures! However, if you’re used to surfing in the likes of Cornwall, UK – I reckon you’d be well-prepared for these climes.
I found a hole-in-the-wall gem called Motx Coffee x Gros (Usandizaga Kalea, 21). Grab a takeaway coffee and the most divine coffee and cinnamon bun. Cost: 7.86 EUR
But first coffee… Fueling up in Gros at Motx Specialty Coffee. After all that eating, sometimes you just need a perfect flat white and a quick stop before hitting the beach (or the next pintxos bar!).
Beach breakfast done right! A delicious warm cinnamon bun and a flat white from Motx, enjoyed with a front-row view of the surfers on La Zurriola Beach. This is the more relaxed side of a San Sebastian city break.
Lunch: Gros Pintxos
Bar Kbzón Haundi (Miguel Imaz K., Nº 1): Don't judge a bar by its exterior! Must-Eat: Zamburiñas (grilled scallops with Gorgonzola and caviar), roasted red peppers (Piquillos), and the grilled tuna (Pescado). Cost: 28.10 EUR / 14.05 EUR each (split between two)
Gerald’s Bar (Iparragirre K., 13): A popular spot with a cute interior. Must-Eat: Steak tartare and anchovies. Reservations advised here in you want to get a seat inside and enjoy the beautiful interior! Cost: approx 35 EUR / 17.50 EUR each (split between two)
Total spent on Pintxos + drinks: approx 63 EUR / 31 EUR each (split between two of us)
Found this hidden gem in Gros: Bar Kbzon Haundi! Simple, fresh ingredients like these sweet roasted peppers showcase how amazing Basque Country food can be without any fuss.
Scallops, Gorgonzola, and Caviar! Bar Kbzon Haundi in Gros is seriously raising the bar for modern pintxos.
Always go for the fish of the day, especially in San Sebastián! This beautiful plate at Bar Kbzon Haundi was light, fresh, and totally delicious.
Next-level steak tartare at Gerald's Bar! This chic little spot in Gros is perfect for a pre-dinner glass of wine and some seriously sophisticated snacks. A fantastic sit-down alternative to the busy Old Town pintxos bars! Note: booking in advance is advised.
The simplicity of true quality: fresh anchovies, crusty bread, and good olive oil at Gerald’s Bar in Gros. Sometimes, the best pintxos are the most humble ones. A refreshing bite on our celebratory foodie city break.
Afternoon: Basque Delicacy Shopping
The Old Town is a treasure trove of lovely shops. We hit up La Oveja Latxa deli (Fermin Calbeton Kalea, 34) and were seduced into buying a bottle of truffle balsamic vinegar for €13.00. They have award-winning olive oils, cheeses, and meats too. Important: Check customs regulations for what you can bring home!
Look out for cool lifestyle and clothing brands like Colors of Basque Country, Wituka, Miner (near Gerald’s bar) and Dott Donosti, Lance & Malone, Koloreka for collectable art and jewellery pieces by local artists, and the bakeries like Otaegui for incredible pastries.
Souvenir shopping, but make it edible! This incredible Basque delicatessen in the Old Town is packed with regional treasures. Canned tuna, beautiful olive oils, and, of course, a bottle of local cider!
When in the Basque Country, you must try the cider! Sagardoa is a unique, slightly sour, and utterly refreshing drink. The perfect liquid souvenir from our San Sebastian foodie city break!
The Gros neighborhood is so much more than just the beach and the food. I loved browsing the independent boutiques like Miner—perfect for finding cool, local gifts and soaking up the surf-meets-city vibe!
Found the perfect place to pick up a reminder of this trip! Supporting local artists and getting a chic print of San Sebastián? Win-win! The Old Town has so many charming, hidden galleries.
Finding the perfect trinkets to remember the 40th birthday foodie city break! If you're looking for fun, colorful, and unique souvenirs, explore the smaller streets of the Old Town.
Final stop for a little retail therapy! The independent boutiques in San Sebastián are filled with gorgeous, unique items. It's the little unexpected finds that complete a perfect city break. I bought a cool little surfer art print from here.
Evening: The Grand Finale
Our final night needed to be special! And with still so many amazing Pintxos stops to tick off the list, we set off wandering around the Old Town to see what we could find.
Sidreria Beharri is a traditional cider house in the Old Town is a must-visit for authentic, hearty Basque cuisine and, of course, cider.
The perfect pairing for a pintxos safari: sharp Txakoli wine and traditional Basque cider! Getting our final dose of Basque Country food at Sidreria Beharri on Narrika Kalea.
Pintxos spread: steak x 2, peppers, croquetas—we went all out at Sidreria Beharri!
Mussel madness at La Mejillonera, San Sebastián's famous Mussel Bar! The Tigres Picantes (spicy mussels) are mandatory. Messy, spicy, and the perfect pairing for a chilled Txakoli.
Stepping back in time at Paco Bueno, a true Old Town institution! This classic 1950s bar is unfussy and famous for one thing: the perfect, crispy battered prawns.
The authentic atmosphere of Paco Bueno. No fancy decor, just great food, cold drinks, and a buzzing local crowd. This is the real San Sebastian pintxos experience!
We popped into the super popular Bar Sport (the crowd spills out onto the street) it looked so lovely, but by this point in the trip our achey backs needed somewhere to sit!
Indulging in a glass of what might be the best Rioja Berceo of the trip at Fermín Calbetón! Paired with this incredible beef carpaccio pintxo, it was pure bliss. A true moment of luxury on our foodie city break.
Seriously, this Rioja Berceo at Fermín Calbetón was perfection. A reminder that the drinks are just as important as the food on a great pintxos food safari!
Our Day 3 Pintxos Route: Final Bites
We started at the reservable Sidreria Beharri (Narrika Kalea, 22), a Basque cuisine and cider house. We had Pintxos, steak, padron peppers, and croquetas, all washed down with cider and Txakoli.
Cervecerias La Mejillonera (Portu Kalea, 15): The famous Mussel Bar! It's busy and standing-room-only, with a great local crowd. Must-Eat: Tigres Picante mussels (and you should definitely order the spicy potatoes too! We drank Txakoli - which seemed odd in here, as most folks were drinking beer or sangria. Cost: 10.20 EUR / 5.10 EUR each (split between two)
Paco Bueno (C. Mayor): A 1950s traditional sports bar with a laid-back, unfussy vibe. Grab a beer and the battered prawns. Note: we skipped on drinks this time. Cost: 4.60 EUR / 2.30 EUR each (split between two)
Fermín Calbetón (Fermin Calbeton Kalea, 40): We got a high table here for our final proper meal. Must-Eat: Beef carpaccio with sheep’s milk cheese and avocado puree and, for the wine lovers, three glasses each of the best Rioja Berceo wine of the trip! Cost: approx 40.00 EUR / 20 EUR each (split between two)
Nightcap: Garagar’s Irish Bar (Boulevard Zumardia, 22). Packed, great atmosphere, and a fun way to end the celebrations with a Guinness or Irish Whisky! Cost: approx: 20-30 EUR
Total spent on Pintxos + drinks: approx 74.80 EUR / 37.40 EUR each (split between two of us)
Ending our foodie city break tour with a final look at the majestic Basilica Nuestra Señora del Coro. This incredible building anchors the whole Old Town—the perfect spot to stop, sit on the steps and enjoy those amazing pintxos!
bilbao + san sebastian Trip Cost & Need-to-know next Steps
This 4-night trip was absolutely worth every penny. Here’s a rough breakdown of what was spent on the core trip elements:
Cost (Approximate) | My notes:
Flights & Airport Transfer - £365.83 (Flights + MAN Uber)
Bus from Bilbao to San Sebastián: I'd estimate this is around €10-€15 per person.
Bilbao Accommodation - £60.00 (1/3 of triple room)
San Sebastián Accommodation - £159.50 (1/3 of total hotel cost)
Transfer from San Sebastián Hotel to Bilbao Airport: Taxi from hotel to San Sebastian Bus Station + Bus from San Sebastian Bus Station direct to Bilbao Airport - approx 25 - 30 EUR
All Pintxos, Drinks & Extras: Based on my partial notes, the food/drink spend was already over €250 per person. I'd budget a minimum of €100 per day for Pintxos, coffee, and local transport, or more if you enjoy trying more expensive dishes and wines!
Total Travel/Stay - £585.33
Total Food (Per person) - £260 - 300 approx* (Budget between £80-100+ per day each for the Pintxos + drinks safari we did!)
(note: we did not choose to do any of the Michelin Starred Tasting Menu experiences or restaurants on this first trip. But if you wanted to, you could expect to budget anywhere from £125 - £350+ per person, per Michelin Guide recommended restaurant experience. Top restaurant’s that I would love to visit another time include: Akelare, Casa Urola, Kokotxa, Narru, Sukaldean Aitor Santamaria, Rekondo, Mugaritz - and not forgetting the famous steak at Casa Julian! We tried to get a table here, but no reservations available sadly. But, as luck would have it, the quality of steak in the Basque country is pretty damn high wherever you go!
I went with two of my best mates for a food safari city break in San Sebastián for my 40th birthday aka a girl’s trip. But we also saw plenty of couples, solo travellers and young families in Bilbao and San Sebastian. The streets feel safe, and it is a very easy city to walk around during the day at night. The public transport system is one of the best I’ve experienced too! If you can get decent priced flights, and are prepared to do the bus transfer fro Bilbao to San Sebastian (1.5 hours approx each way) it’s definitely worth a adding to your list of places to visit. I will definitely be back! It truly was one of my favourite ever city breaks.
Overall Budget Estimate: I would budget around £900 - £1,100 per person for flights, accommodation, and all food/drink for this incredible four-night getaway, especially if you plan to eat like a queen!
The humble starting point for every delicious pintxo! It's all about the fresh bread. Seeing the prep behind the scenes in the Old Town makes you appreciate the speed and volume of this incredible foodie city break!
The best things we ate and drank in San Sebastian…
Eating Pintxos is all about variety!
Here are some of the stars that absolutely must make it onto your checklist:
Hongos Plancha (Mushrooms with egg yolk)
Jakobaren maskorrak gratinatuak (Gratinated Scallops)
Basque Cheesecake (La Viña)
Txakoli (The local fizzy white wine)
Beef Cheek Stew (La Cuchara de San Telmo)
Tigres Picante (Spicy Mussels)
Txaka (Spider Crab Pintxos)
Txakoli wine, ham, and amazing pintxos! This shot perfectly captures the essence of a night at La Cepa. A crisp Txakoli paired with a cured ham pintxo is peak San Sebastián.
Technology you should download to help supercharge your travel experience
To replicate our Bilbao and San Sebastián travel experience (and try something you might not usually), download the Google Translate app or use the Google Lens feature to translate the Basque-language menus and signs in real-time! The Google Gemini app is also super handy for planning your packing list, refining your trip itinerary – or even turning your quickly scribbled down phone notes from your trip into an adaptable skeleton of a structured travel blog post, that fits the style and tone of your other content! LOVE IT!
When you need a little help deciphering the incredible local language! Google Translate is your best friend when tackling a handwritten Basque menu. Don't be afraid to ask, or just point at the best-looking thing! 😉
The electric buzz of the pedestrianised Old Town at night! When the crowds spill out onto the street, you know the pintxos are flowing. It's lively, loud, and the best way to experience San Sebastián after dark!
Some key stats I found using google’s AI overview about San Sebastián to get your mouth watering…
Second-highest per capita: San Sebastián and its surrounding region have the second-highest number of Michelin stars per capita in the world, following Kyoto, Japan.
2025 Total: The Basque Country region had 22 Michelin-starred restaurants in 2025.
Three-Star Restaurants: The region is home to four restaurants holding three Michelin stars: Akelarre, Arzak, Martín Berasategui, and Azurmendi.
Other Notable Restaurants: In addition to the three-star establishments, the region features other Michelin-starred restaurants like Mugaritz (two stars) and Elkano (one star).
I hope you enjoyed reading this post and found it both useful and entertaining! Please do share the link with any friends or family who may be planning a trip to San Sebastián or Bilbao, that you think could benefit from this blog and would enjoy eating all of the Pintxos the Basque Country has to offer!
Thanks for reading!
Lucie x
🍽️ San Sebastián Foodie Bingo Checklist ✅
This is the ultimate checklist for eating your way through San Sebastián! Just copy and paste this into your phone's Notes app and tick them off as you go:
[ ] Txakoli Sparkling Wine
[ ] Cider (Sagardoa)
[ ] Spanish Rioja Wine
[Cerveza] Spanish beer (try Bar Desy for craft beer)
[ ] Coffee (Flat White/Cortado)
[ ] Tortilla (de Patatas)
[ ] Steak (Txuleta)
[ ] Mussels
[ ] Ribs
[ ] Sea Urchin
[ ] Gilda (Pintxo - olive, anchovy, pepper)
[ ] Padrón Peppers
[ ] Kalimotxo (Coke & red wine)
[ ] Sea Bream
[ ] Pan Con Tomate
[ ] Potato Salad (Ensaladilla Rusa)
[ ] Pork Belly
[ ] Salt Cod Fritters (Buñuelos)
[ ] Cheese (Manchego)
[ ] Cheese (Idiazabal - smoky sheep's milk)
[ ] Iberian Ham (Jamón Ibérico)
[ ] Veal Cheek (Carrillera)
[ ] Empanadas
[ ] Basque Cheesecake (La Viña style)
[ ] Octopus (Pulpo)
[ ] Beef Cheek (Carrillera)
[ ] Grilled Prawns
[ ] Spider Crab (Txangurro)
[ ] Croquetas
[ ] Mushrooms (Hongos Plancha)
[ ] Scallops (Gratinated or Grilled)
Go forth, eat, drink, and fill your boots!
Bringing some colorful tile inspiration from another fabulous city break! Nothing beats the beautiful azulejos of Portugal. If you're planning a multi-stop trip, combining the food of San Sebastián with the beauty of a city like Porto is a dream!
P.s. visiting Porto anytime soon? Check our my review of Michelin Star Chef Ricardo Costa’s Mira Mira restaurant and tasting menu in Porto [Press Invite] .